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Seochon: Change and Continuity

DATE: Sunday. June 26, 2022.  1:00 ~ 5:00PM (Seoul)
DESTINATION: Seochon Area in Seoul
COST: KRW25,000 for RAS Korea Members; KRW30,000 for Non-members
LEADER: Jennifer Flinn & Robert J. Fouser

MEETING POINT: At the top of Exit #3 of Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3) at 1:00PM.

RSVP by June 23 (Thursday) by clicking here with payment of the fee via bank transfer. Please register one RSVP at a time.

☞Payment to be remitted to the following account:
SHINHAN BANK ACCOUNT # 100-026-383501 (RAS-KB)

*Reservation is not confirmed until payment has been received by RAS Korea in advance of the event.

Description:
In this excursion, led by a current and former resident, we will the Seochon (West Village) area with a focus on contemporary history. Seochon is one of the oldest areas of Seoul but is also a showcase of the layers of 20th-century urban history and architectural styles. During the Joseon Period (1392-1910) the area included several subsidiary royal palaces and was home to many middle-level government officials. During the Japanese colonial period, Japanese, many who worked for the colonial government, moved into the area and “city hanoks” became popular among middle-class Koreans. After liberation in 1945, the area lived for years under the shadow of Chongwadae, the presidential residence until May 2022. The opening of Chongwadae to public marks a major turning point in the history of the neighborhood.

Starting at Gyeongbokgung Station, we will first explore the alleys of Tongui-dong, which include an eclectic mixture of hanok, Japanese colonial-period houses, and modern museums and galleries. Beginning in the 2000s, the area has evolved into one of Seoul’s newest art districts and has recently attracted independent bookshops and specialty shops.

Moving across Jahamunno, we stop at Sangchonjae, a newly built hanok in traditional style. We will then make our way to Tongin Market, a neighborhood market that has worked to remain vital as markets have fallen out of favor. From there, we will walk through alleys in areas with a high concentration of small hanoks. Many parts of this area were slated for redevelopment into apartments in 2000s, but toward the end of that decade, the city of Seoul put the brakes on those plans. In the 2010s, a wave of gentrification caused commercialization of the area, driving out residents and local shops. The area also includes a densely packed multi-family residences built in the 1990s that replaced Japanese-style single-family houses.

In this area, we will visit two history 1930s hanoks. The first is the house where Yi Sang-beom (1897–1972), a famous Korean-style painter of the mid-20th century, lived and worked. The second is the Hong Geon-ik House, a large that had been vacant for years, but was restored in the mid-2010s and opened to the public. We will walk alleys nearby and look at architectural renovations and other recent changes in the neighborhood. We will then go through former Geumcheongyo Market on our way back to the subway, which will also give us a chance to study the cityscape along Jahamunno.

Please meet at Exit #3 of Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3) at 13:00. Most of the area is flat, but comfortable walking shoes are recommended. Participants are welcome to join Jennifer and Robert for a meal (not included in the fee) after the walk ends.

 

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